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Angle to Key West: Franklin’s Swindle (8/1)

Daisy Farm, Isle Royale National Park – August 1, 2012 A wave lifted me into the air. For a moment, it felt like hanging over the world from a mountain top. Then I dropped deep between two glassy...

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Angle to Key West: Watching Waves (8/23)

Outer Island, Apostles – August 23, 2012 I watched waves smash against the breakwall on Michigan Island’s dock for three hours. I watched from the very edge where the spray shoots past your face...

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Angle to Key West: Lock 5 (10/4)

Below Lock 5, Mississippi River – October 4, 2012 I flew toward Lock 5 feeling like a rodeo clown in a bull-pushed barrel. Miles of open water above the lock gave the wind full reign to conjure waves...

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Angle to Key West: What Changed? (11/10)

Upper Mississippi Mile 93 near Seventy-Six Conservation Area – November 10, 2012 I remember the waves on Lake Superior, how I crashed through them laughing, how the bow-sprayed water fell on my smile,...

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Angle to Key West: Bad Days (12/10)

Mile 195 on Lower Mississippi – December 10, 2012 The tent shrunk then folded around me. I leaned against the wall. It felt like a bull raged on the other side. Fabric snapped and ripped in the air....

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Angle to Key West: Blonde with the Wind (12/26)

Perdido Key State Park, Florida – December 26, 2012 The truth is I don’t know Giulia very well. We share a lot of friends, the dearest friends, friends I would hand my life over to without a thought,...

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Angle to Key West: Fireworks (1/9)

Patch of sand next to canal – January 9, 2013 A wall of emerald water met me at East Pass. Giant swells rising big enough for the Looksha to slide her entire body across as she climbed over the top...

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Angle to Key West: Alone in the Dark (1/13)

Cape San Blas Lighthouse, Florida – January 13, 2013 Four-foot waves are scarier at night than they are in the light. All you see are glints of white flashing like teeth when they break and all you...

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Angle to Key West: Across Tampa Bay (2/16)

Longboat Key – February 16, 2013 There is a problem when a seventeen foot kayak and a thousand-foot freighter are the only two boats in Tampa Bay and the problem is not with the freighter. Wind rushed...

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Angle to Key West: Whitewater Bay (3/2)

Flamingo, Everglades National Park – March 2, 2013 “A hundred and fifty thousand miles,” John says near the entrance of Whitewater Bay. Waves surge across the open water, pushing at our backs. Wind...

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Angle to Key West: Beautiful Moments (4/10)

South of Savannah, GA – April 10, 2013 Long crescent beaches with nothing but sand and trees. Blue sky and sunlight. A southern breeze and fresh air. Glass waves until the earth curves away. Some...

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Angle to Key West: Across the Chesapeake (5/28)

Mockhorn Island, VA – May 28, 2013 A bridge stretches across the Chesapeake Bay’s wide mouth, dipping beneath the water and tunneling under shipping channels to make room for freighters and warships...

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Angle to Key West: Under the Surface (6/5)

Wildwood, NJ – June 5, 2013 Twelve miles of water splits New Jersey and Delaware. It’s shorter than the Chesapeake, but it doesn’t feel it because there’s no bridge to measure your progress against....

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Angle to Key West: Welcome to New York (6/12)

New York City, NY – June 12, 2013 The water’s calm, quiet. I leave camp early as the sun rises. I want to steal miles from the wind, but it’s waiting for me, blowing in my face as soon as I hit open...

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Angle to Key West: Lake Nipissing (8/4)

Atkin Bay, Lake Nipissing – August 4, 2013 The wind never stopped blowing last night. It hasn’t stopped for three days. It pours out of the west, running the length of Nipissing in a fury, building...

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Angle to Key West: Huron Serves Notice (8/9)

Near Crume Island, Georgian Bay of Lake Huron – August 9, 2013 As the French River braids and splits apart in its descent to Huron, the Voyageurs always went west. They gave up broad channels, forsook...

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Angle to Key West: Sea Monsters (8/28)

Baldhead River, Lake Superior – August 28, 2013 The pictograph monster sits on a flat face of rock overlooking Lake Superior. Two horns rise off its blocky head, curving like sickles, each as tall as...

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Angle to Key West: Steal Miles (8/30)

Smoky Point, Lake Superior – August 30, 2013 Silver blue waves slide down the coast from the north. The wind pushes behind them, gusting and bullying the water, defied only by a sheet of grey clouds...

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Angle to Key West: Chasing the Blue Sky (9/2)

Pukaskwa Point, Lake Superior – September 2, 2013 I began to wonder if I would ever see the sun again. I glimpsed a single star last night through a fog, but the same grey clouds swallowed it up by...

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Angle to Key West: Last Punch (9/12)

Near Thunder Point, Lake Superior – September 12, 2013 The first wave hit the nose of the boat and sent a spray of water soaring into the air. The drops flew back in the wind and I ducked my chin....

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